Got Clams?

Clams are one of those foods that some people really like and some people are really just terrified to even try.

While many take their first step into the briny world of this bivalve through the cream-fortified vehicle of New England Clam Chowder and stop there, the converted know that a big pile of clams steamed in a garlicky, wine-infused broth is a tasty (and probably healthier) way to enjoy these humble bivalves.

Know Thy Clam
Bivalves make their living filtering water. Where they come from, what time of year it is, how long they have been in transit, and how they've been stored all contribute to quality. There is nothing better than fresh clean clam and there is absolutely nothing worse than a bad clam, oyster, or mussel. On the positive side, if you get a bad one, you will know fairly quickly. If something doesn't taste right, don't eat it.

I personally suggest sticking with product from the cold, clean waters of the Pacific northwest or New Zealand. New Zealand cockles, a great little clam, are particularly sweet and tasty when available. Costco is a great place to get a bag of these at a good price.

All clams, cockles, mussels, oyster and other bivalves are, by law, shipped with a tag that lists their origin, date of harvest, and date of packing. If this tag is not attached or displayed with the clams, ask to see it. The retailer must provide it. If you can get product that has been harvested within the last week, that's ideal. Anything more than 10-12 days I would probably pass on.

True Grit

Clams live in sand. No getting around that. But, eating gritting clams is something nobody could possibly enjoy. Fortunately, there is a great way to minimize this experience that I've found through much research and experimentation.

First, dump your clams into a big bowl and give them a good wash to get them started. I use a big, stainless steel mixing bowl. Throw out any broken clams. Next, here's the best way I've ever found for getting the grit out of clams. (Note: things you may read in various cookbooks about putting cornmeal in the water or anything else are pure baloney and don't work. Trust me.)

Cover the clams with cold water adding about about 2 tablespoons of salt and 1/8 cup white vinegar per gallon of water. No need to get too precise. Give it a stir. Let them sit for at least 20-30 minutes, but probably not more than an hour. The clams will take in some of the acidulated water then basically spit it out along with any grit in them. (You'll be surprised how much.) Pour off the cloudy water and rinse a couple more times. Any clams that are open and won't stay closed after a little tap or have broken shells should be discarded.

Note, while it happens very rarely, I have gotten a bad bag of clams once or twice in the last ten years. This was most likely due to improper storage/handling during shipping. The tip off is that they basically smelled really bad and there were a lot of dead clams in there. If this happens to you, trust your nose and throw the whole lot in the garbage or take them back to the store for a refund.

Cooking

Chop, crush, or slice 2 or more cloves of garlic. Some shallots can be nice to add, too.

Heat up a large, heavy pot such as a Le Creuset Dutch Oven:

Saute garlic on medium heat in sufficient olive oil and butter until just before it browns.

Add clams. (This recipe is based on the size bag Costco sells. Probably 4-5 lbs.)

Add about 1/4 to 1/3 cup total of un-oaked white wine and water. (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chablis, etc., all work fine. Even Chardonnay or beer is OK if that's all you've got!)

Add few grinds of black pepper.
Add a pinch or two of crushed red pepper. A pinch of dried thyme, oregano, or marjoram can be added if you like those flavors, but go easy. Remember that this is about not overpowering the main ingredient.

Crank heat up to high. Cover. Stir occasionally.
After about 5 minutes, check. The freshest clams will have opened. Remove open clams with some tongs. Don't overcook, they'll get rubbery!
Through out anything that doesn't open.

Remove clams to large bowl and serve with broth and crusty bread on the side.